How to Crochet a Daisy Coaster (Easy Beginner-Friendly Pattern)

If you’re looking for a quick crochet project that’s both practical and adorable, this daisy coaster is a great choice to try. It works up surprisingly fast, uses only a small amount of yarn, and makes a beautiful handmade addition to your coffee table, dining table, or even your desk at the office.

One of the things I love most about this pattern is just how beginner-friendly it is. If you’ve already learned the basic stitches like chain, slip stitch, double crochet, and half double crochet, you’ll be able to follow along without much trouble at all. Even if you’ve only finished a handful of simple crochet projects up to this point, this coaster is a great way to practice working in rounds and switching between yarn colors.

You can also customize the colors however you like. A classic white daisy with a yellow center is always lovely, but you could just as easily make pink, purple, blue, red, or even a rainbow flower to match your home decor or whatever season it happens to be. Since these coasters use so little yarn, they’re also a great stash-busting project.

By the end of this tutorial, you’ll have a beautiful flower-shaped coaster with a textured centre, soft petals, and a decorative scalloped edge running around the outside.

Materials You’ll Need

Before getting started, gather your supplies together. You’ll want medium-weight (Weight 4) acrylic or cotton yarn in yellow for the flower centre, cream or white for the petals, and blue, or any color you prefer, for the coaster border. You’ll also need a 5 mm (H/8) crochet hook, a yarn needle, and scissors.

Acrylic vs. Cotton Yarn

Both acrylic and cotton yarn work well for this project, though each one gives you a slightly different result.

Cotton yarn creates a firmer, more structured coaster that absorbs moisture well, which makes it ideal for everyday use under a mug or glass.

Acrylic yarn creates a softer coaster with a slightly fluffier feel to it. It’s also widely available, cheap, and easy to work with, which makes it an excellent choice if you’re still a beginner.

Choose whichever yarn appeals to you, since the pattern works well either way.

Crochet Abbreviations Used

Throughout this tutorial, I’ll be using these standard abbreviations. ch means chain, sl st means slip stitch, dc means double crochet, hdc means half double crochet, and tr means treble or triple crochet.

Finished Pattern Overview

This coaster comes together in four rounds total.

Round 1 creates the yellow flower centre. Round 2 crochets 12 daisy petals around it. Round 3 adds the colored background surrounding the flower. And Round 4 creates the decorative scalloped border that finishes the whole coaster off.

Work through each round carefully before moving on to the next one.

Round 1: Crochet the Flower Centre

We’ll begin with the yellow yarn here.

Step 1: Make a Magic Ring

Start by making a magic ring, sometimes also called a magic circle. If you’ve never made one before, don’t worry about it. It takes most beginners a few tries before it starts feeling comfortable in their hands. Once you’ve got it down, though, it’s one of the best ways to start a project worked in rounds since it closes tightly without leaving a hole sitting in the centre.

Leave the ring loose enough that you can crochet into it comfortably without fighting your hook.

Step 2: Chain 2

After creating the magic ring, chain 2. These beginning chains help bring your work up to the correct height for the first round.

Step 3: Crochet 12 Double Crochets into the Magic Ring

Now work 12 double crochets (dc) into the centre of the magic ring.

If you’re still getting comfortable with double crochet, here’s a quick refresher. Yarn over, insert your hook into the magic ring, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through the first two loops, and yarn over one more time and pull through the remaining two loops.

Repeat these steps until you’ve made 12 double crochets sitting inside the ring.

Try to spread the stitches evenly around the ring as you go. It might feel a bit crowded toward the end, and that’s completely normal.

Step 4: Tighten the Magic Ring

Once all 12 double crochets are done, gently pull the tail of the magic ring. The center hole should close almost completely, giving you a neat, tidy middle for your flower.

Pull it firmly, but not so hard that the yarn feels like it might snap on you.

Step 5: Join the Round

Locate the first double crochet you made. Insert your hook into the top of that stitch and make a slip stitch to join the round.

Your yellow flower center is now complete.

Before moving on, you should have a flat circle, 12 evenly spaced double crochets, and a tightly closed center with little to no visible hole showing.

Don’t worry if your circle curls a bit while you’re working. It usually flattens out naturally as the remaining rounds get added on top.

Round 2: Crochet the Daisy Petals

Now for the fun part, turning that simple yellow circle into an actual daisy.

For this round, switch over to your cream or white yarn, or whatever petal color you’re going with. Each petal is worked into one stitch from the previous round, and by the time you’re finished, you’ll have 12 petals evenly spaced around the flower.

Step 1: Fasten Off the Yellow Yarn

Once Round 1 is complete, cut the yellow yarn, leaving a tail about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) long. That extra length makes it a lot easier to weave in the end later.

Pull the yarn completely through the loop on your hook to fasten it off securely.

Step 2: Join the Petal Colour

Choose any double crochet from Round 1 to start with. It doesn’t matter which stitch you pick since the flower looks identical no matter where you begin.

Insert your hook into the top of the chosen double crochet. Attach your cream or white yarn by pulling it through the stitch and tying a simple knot with the yarn tails on the back of your work. Make sure the knot’s snug but not overly tight.

Insert your hook back into that same stitch, pull up a loop, and you’re ready to start crocheting the petals.

Step 3: Begin the First Petal

Start by chaining 3. These beginning chains act as the first part of the first petal.

Next, you’ll crochet 2 treble crochets together into that same stitch where you attached the yarn.

How to Crochet 2 Treble Crochets Together

If you’ve never worked treble crochets together before, don’t worry about it. You’re just making two unfinished treble crochets before completing them at the same time.

For the first unfinished treble crochet, yarn over twice, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through two loops again. Stop here and leave that last loop sitting on your hook instead of finishing the stitch off completely.

Repeat these same steps one more time into that exact same stitch.

After making the second unfinished treble crochet, you’ll have three loops remaining on your hook. Yarn over one final time and pull through all three loops.

Your first petal is now complete.

Step 4: Chain 2

After finishing that first petal, chain 2. These chains create the small space between petals and will be used again during the next round.

Step 5: Crochet the Remaining Petals

Move to the next double crochet from Round 1. Unlike the first petal, every remaining petal is made using 3 treble crochets together instead of 2.

This makes each petal fuller and rounder while letting the beginning chain from the first petal blend in naturally.

How to Crochet 3 Treble Crochets Together

Into the same stitch, work one unfinished treble crochet, then a second unfinished treble crochet, then a third unfinished treble crochet.

After that third unfinished treble crochet, you should have four loops remaining on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all four loops.

That completes one petal. Now chain 2 before moving on to the next stitch.

Repeat Around the Flower

Continue repeating this sequence in every remaining double crochet around the center: 3 treble crochets together, then chain 2.

Each stitch from Round 1 creates one petal, so you’ll end up with 12 petals total by the time you’re finished.

As you work, you’ll notice the flower gradually taking shape. Try to keep your chain-2 spaces reasonably consistent, since they’ll matter in the next round.

Finish Round 2

After you’ve crocheted all the way around, you should have 12 daisy petals, with a chain-2 space after each one.

To close the round, make a slip stitch into the top of the very first petal. This joins the round neatly without leaving a visible gap behind.

Fasten Off

Cut the cream or white yarn, again leaving a 4–6-inch tail for weaving in later. Pull the yarn completely through the loop on your hook and tighten it gently.

At this point, your work should already look like a daisy, with a bright yellow center and 12 evenly spaced petals surrounding it.

Before moving forward, quickly count your petals. If you’ve got exactly 12 petals and 12 chain-2 spaces, you’re ready for the next round.

Round 3: Crochet the Background of the Coaster

Now that your daisy is finished, it’s time to add the background that turns it into an actual coaster.

For this round, switch over to your border color. The original pattern uses blue, but any color that complements your flower works well; soft green, beige, pink, lavender, or even a neutral shade works.

You’ll crochet into the chain-2 spaces between the petals you made in the previous round.

Step 1: Attach the New Yarn

Choose any chain-2 space sitting between two petals. Insert your hook into that space and attach your new yarn with a simple knot on the back of your work.

Pull up a loop through the chain-2 space. Once your yarn’s attached, chain 1. This chain gives you the correct height to begin the round.

Step 2: Work the First Corner

Into that same chain-2 space, crochet 2 half double crochets, chain 1, then 2 more half double crochets. Everything here gets worked into that same chain-2 space.

This combination creates a small corner that helps shape the coaster while keeping it lying flat.

If you’re new to the half double crochet stitch, yarn over, insert your hook into the chain-2 space, yarn over and pull up a loop; you should now have three loops on your hook. Then yarn over and pull through all three loops. That’s one-half double crochet done.

Repeat until you’ve completed the full sequence.

Step 3: Repeat Around the Flower

Move to the next chain-2 space between the petals. Again, work 2 half double crochets, chain 1, 2 half double crochets into that same space.

Continue repeating this exact pattern in every chain-2 space all the way around the flower.

By the time you finish the round, every single space between the petals should contain 2 half double crochets, a chain-1, and then 2 more half double crochets. Since there are 12 chain-2 spaces total, you’ll repeat this pattern 12 times.

As you crochet, you’ll notice the coaster becoming a lot flatter and more circular. The petals will also feel more secure once they’re connected together by the surrounding stitches.

Helpful Tip

Try to keep each chain-1 space about the same size as you go. These spaces matter because you’ll crochet into them during the final round. If some chains end up very loose while others are tight, the finished border can end up looking uneven.

Finish Round 3

After working into the last chain-2 space, locate the first half double crochet of the round. Make a slip stitch into the top of that stitch to join the round.

Your coaster should now have a yellow center, 12 cream or white petals, a colored border surrounding the flower, and 12 chain-1 spaces sitting around the outside edge.

Lay your work down on a flat surface for a moment. The coaster should sit flat without curling. A slight wave is normal at this stage and usually disappears after the final round, or once the coaster’s been shaped.

If your coaster is puckering, double-check you’ve worked into every single chain-2 space. If it’s ruffling too much instead, make sure you haven’t accidentally added in extra stitches somewhere.

At this stage, your coaster already looks pretty much complete, but the outer edge is still fairly simple-looking.

Round 4: Crochet the Decorative Scalloped Border

This is the final round of the pattern, and it’s the one that gives the coaster its beautiful finished edge.

You’ll work into the chain-1 spaces you created back in Round 3. In each chain-1 space, you’ll crochet a group of five double crochets to form a scallop, then secure it with a slip stitch. Repeating this all the way around creates a soft, wavy border that frames the daisy perfectly.

Step 1: Crochet the First Scallop

Without changing yarn, locate the first chain-1 space between the two groups of half double crochets.

Into this space, work 5 double crochets. All five stitches go into that exact same chain-1 space.

If you need a quick reminder of how a double crochet works, yarn over, insert your hook into the chain-1 space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the first two loops, then yarn over again and pull through the remaining two loops.

Repeat until you’ve made five double crochets in that same space.

As you finish the fifth stitch, you’ll notice them naturally fanning out to create a rounded scallop shape.

Step 2: Secure the Scallop

After completing the five double crochets, you’ll need to anchor the scallop before moving on to the next one.

Instead of working into the very next stitch, skip one stitch and insert your hook into the second stitch after the chain-1 space. Make a slip stitch into that stitch.

This slip stitch pulls the scallop neatly against the edge and creates the dip between each rounded section.

Step 3: Crochet the Next Scallop

Move to the next chain-1 space. Again, work 5 double crochets into it, then skip the next stitch and make a slip stitch into the following one.

This completes your second scallop. You should already be able to see the decorative edge starting to form.

Step 4: Repeat Around the Entire Coaster

Continue repeating this pattern all the way around: 5 double crochets into the next chain-1 space, skip one stitch, slip stitch into the following stitch.

Repeat this sequence in every single chain-1 space until you’ve worked your way all the way around. Since there are 12 chain-1 spaces, you’ll end up with 12 scallops circling the outside edge.

As you work, occasionally spread the finished scallops apart with your fingers. This helps you see whether they’re sitting evenly and makes it easier to catch any missed spaces before you finish the round.

Finish Round 4

Once you’ve completed the last scallop, join the round by making a slip stitch into the first double crochet of the first scallop.

This creates a smooth, nearly invisible join and completes the border.

Your daisy coaster is now fully crocheted.

Fasten Off the Yarn

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) long. Pull it completely through the loop on your hook and gently tighten to secure that final stitch.

Don’t trim the tails too short just yet; you’ll still need them for weaving in.

Weave in the Ends

Thread one yarn tail onto a yarn needle. Weave the tail through the backs of several nearby stitches, changing direction once or twice as you go to help lock the yarn in place. Pull gently so the stitches stay flat without getting distorted.

Trim away any excess yarn once the tail feels secure. Repeat this process for every remaining yarn tail.

Taking a little extra time here is worth it. Well-woven ends help prevent the coaster from unraveling after repeated use or washing down the line.

Check Your Finished Coaster

Before calling your project complete, take a quick look over the whole thing.

Your finished coaster should have a tightly closed yellow center, 12 evenly spaced daisy petals, a neat colored background surrounding the flower, 12 decorative scallops around the outer edge, all yarn ends securely woven in, and a coaster that lies flat without excessive curling or ruffling.

If your coaster isn’t perfectly flat, don’t worry about it. Handmade crochet pieces sometimes just need a bit of shaping.

Lightly smooth the coaster with your hands, adjusting the petals and scallops until everything sits evenly. If needed, you can also lightly block the coaster according to whatever recommendations apply for your particular yarn type, especially if you used cotton.

Final Thoughts

This daisy coaster is one of those crochet projects that’s quick enough to finish in a single afternoon but still pretty enough to display all year round. Once you’ve made one, it’s hard to stop; it’s the kind of pattern that’s perfect for using up leftover yarn and playing around with different color combinations.

You can stick with the classic yellow and white daisy, build colorful flowers for spring and summer, or even lean into festive colors to match different holidays throughout the year. Since each coaster only uses a small amount of yarn, they’re also great for making matching sets without eating through much of your stash.

These coasters also make thoughtful handmade gifts for birthdays, housewarmings, Mother’s Day, or the holidays. Pair a few together with a favorite mug or a candle, and you’ve got a simple gift that’s both beautiful and practical.